Surprise Yourself in San Antonio

“You may all go to hell, and I will go to Texas.”

With that, frontiersman Davy Crockett harrumphed out of his native Tennessee, got involved with the Texas War for Independence from Mexico, and met his untimely end in 1836 at the Misión San Antonio de Valero, more famously known as The Alamo.

He may not have been in south-central Texas very long, but Crockett’s fierce, proud, “y’all can bite me,” go-his-own-way attitude still resonates today in the Alamo City.

Colorful, casual, and distinctly Texan, San Antonio is one of the fastest-growing cities in the U.S., yet it also has a rich Spanish colonial heritage dating from the early 1700s (well over half of its residents are of Mexican descent.)

Its population of over 1.5 million is bigger than Dallas, but with so much travel hoopla directed toward nearby Austin – about 90 minutes away – I’ve always felt that this city doesn’t get the attention that it deserves.

Here are some ideas for your next visit:

Artistic San Antonio

Appreciation for the arts is certainly not new in San Antonio, but recent years have seen an explosion in vibrant contemporary and public art.

I spent a fun few hours hunting down some of the murals that are part of the San Antonio Street Art Initiative. That meant, among other adventures, poking around in the most colorful freeway underpass you’ve ever seen – the Murals at Midtown.

16 artists went to work on the big underpass support pillars at the intersection of North St. Mary’s and East Quincy streets under Interstate 35, turning them into imaginative canvases in every style imaginable.

There is plenty of parking under the overpass around the pillars; pull in off of North St. Mary’s Street. No question it’s one of the most Instagrammable places in town.

Other recent San Antonio arts innovations include the Essex Modern City community arts project in a former pallet factory, and the Ruby City contemporary collection, housed in a dramatic 14,000 square foot building designed by renowned architect Sir David Adjaye OBE.

Don’t let all the fuss about the “new kids” keep you from checking out other local stalwarts like the San Antonio Museum of Art (a quick walk from the Midtown Murals,) the Blue Star Arts Complex, the Briscoe Western Art Museum, or the beautiful McNay Art Museum.

The Smithsonian Affiliate Institute of Texan Cultures is another worthwhile stop; it covers centuries of Texas cultural history and profiles the many native and ethnic groups who live in the state. Current special exhibits include “Mabuhay Filipino Texans” and African-American narrative quilts.

You can also catch a dramatic visual and sonic representation of San Antonio history projected onto the San Fernando Cathedral downtown – “The Saga” is an artistic 24-minute video that plays for free on multiple nights during the week on the Main Plaza.

 

Historic San Antonio

The two things that most people know about San Antonio are the Paseo Del Rio – the River Walk – and of course The Alamo. Don’t let their fame dissuade you from seeing them, but do it in a smart way.

These are both venerable downtown landmarks that have survived a lot of inattention and bad ideas in previous years. The River Walk almost became a storm sewer with a street over it, and The Alamo is in the midst of a major plan to restore its historic footprint and relocate the somewhat ill-fitting entertainment businesses located right across from it, like Ripley’s Haunted Adventure and Tomb Rider 3D Adventure Ride and Arcade.

It may seem obvious, but do not try to visit the Alamo on a summer weekend. It is one of the top attractions in Texas, and the combination of crushing crowds and San Antonio’s oven-like heat and humidity will make you miserable. The buildings are not very large, and it’s hard to feel reverent about the brave defenders when you’re jammed in there with a bazillion other tourists.

Try to visit during off-peak times (after Labor Day until late May) and book an informative guided Alamo tour rather than showing up and winging it.

The most crowded part of the 15-mile-long River Walk is probably the horseshoe-shaped section bisected by East Commerce and West Market Streets in the heart of downtown. It’s also where people tend to look for a place to stay because of the convenient location, but review Google Maps carefully before you book anything. There are nice hotels in San Antonio neighborhoods like Alamo Heights, King William/Southtown, northwest near Six Flags Fiesta Texas and SeaWorld/Aquatica, or northeast near Morgan’s Wonderland and Morgan’s Inspiration Island (seasonal play and water parks designed for people with special needs.)

The phrase “on the River Walk” tends to be over-used by local businesses trying to attract visitors with a place they’ve heard of, so again, check a map. The pedestrian areas are not too crowded if you go early enough in the day.

Waterside views are certainly scenic, especially on a boat tour or shuttle, but don’t forget to explore the sections that run north and south from downtown. They are accessible on foot or by bike.

The River Walk’s Mission Reach stretches along the San Antonio River eight miles to the south of downtown.

Take advantage of the BCycle bike rental stations all along the way, because this is a perfect gateway to explore gorgeous architecture and mansions in the King William Historic District, and the four Spanish Colonial missions of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, which is also the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in Texas.

(Tip: at noon on Sundays is a bilingual Mariachi Mass at Mission San Jose – all the Missions still have active Catholic congregations and services.)

The Museum Reach part of the River Walk runs north from downtown, offering easy access to museums like the kid-friendly DoSeum and taking you all the way up to the historic Pearl District, which is another must-see thing to do in San Antonio.

From 1883 to 2001, this was the site of a Pearl Beer brewery. It has been transformed into a dining, shopping, and cultural destination, which of course means lots of condo and apartment development nearby because people want to live where the action is, and this has certainly become one of those places.

District shopping includes local landmark Dos Carolinas, where you can get your man into a custom guayabera shirt. No better way to beat the San Antonio heat in comfort and style.

The Pearl District’s crown jewel is, without question, the exquisite Hotel Emma, built out of an 1894 landmark brewery building and one of the few properties that inspires me to want to slap down big bucks just for the experience of staying there.

I’m not normally a big fan of “industrial chic” (it feels cold and unfriendly) but the Hotel Emma’s designers have somehow made brewery pipes, boilers, and other mechanical paraphernalia feel warm and welcoming in both the hotel side and the restaurants attached to it.

Every time I return to the Pearl there is something new, like the small Food Hall now open in the former Bottling Department. Stop by the Farmers Market if you’re there on a Saturday, too.

(Tip: Maybe you’re in town for a business conference and only have an hour or so to absorb some San Antonio history. If so, drop by the Casa Navarro State Historic Site, a quick walk from El Mercado/Market Square.)

It was the 1850s adobe and limestone home of José Antonio Navarro, a Tejano statesman and one of only two native-born Texans to sign the Texas Declaration of Independence from Mexico. It’s almost all that remains of the old Laredito neighborhood – that’s a hulking modern detention facility/jail built behind it in the photo. Thank you, preservationists who saved Casa Navarro from razing years ago.

Flavors of San Antonio

There are a lot of strong opinions about where to eat in San Antonio, but if you are in the city for the first time, just go to family-owned Mi Tierra Café y Panadería in Market Square. It’s been a culinary landmark since 1941, the food is solid, and best of all, it is open 24 hours.

The last time I was in the city, I was running late for lunch, but I sat down at 3:20 p.m. and no one batted an eye. They even reminded me that breakfast was served 24 hours a day, with fresh-squeezed OJ and plenty of pan dulce in the attached bakery section.

There are roving guitarists, too, if you’re in the mood for a serenade…. yes, they are freelance, so do tip generously.

For more Tex-Mex places, I’ve heard good things about Rosario’s, a lot of locals (plus me) like the unassuming but delicious Ajuúa! Mexican Grill northwest of downtown, and my favorite place to eat on the River Walk is Ácenar. Guenther House in the King William district is great for hearty breakfasts, sandwiches, and salads.

Next door to Mi Tierra is the largest Mexican market in the U.S. – El Mercado, or Market Square. It is full of vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs and Mexican curios, but it’s enjoyable to walk through and see what you can find.

I used to recommend historic La Villita (further downtown) as a shopping alternative, but in my last visit I found the wares less distinctive and artistic than I remember. If you’re going to get touristy as a shopper, might as well do it at El Mercado.

Finally, in the San Antonio spirit of “keeping it puro, keeping it real,” head out in search of one more culinary specialty – the puffy taco.

Brunch at Guenther House

One of my new favorites is located in the stately King William historic residential district – here’s a walking tour of the area – and it’s all about the flour.

The Guenther House was built in 1859 as the home of German immigrant Carl Hilmar Guenther, the founder of San Antonio’s Pioneer Flour Mills (still in business today.)  The company restored the home and it’s now a restaurant serving breakfast and lunch seven days a week.

Sunday brunch is available 10 am to 3 pm, and the menu is loaded with bakery goods, pancakes and waffles and their famous buttermilk biscuits and gravy.

Sure, you can get the usual sandwich/soup/salad offerings (like Champagne Chicken Enchiladas wrapped in Pioneer White Wings tortillas) but really, I’m all about the waffles.  With strawberries on ’em.

Then, you run upstairs to the in-house River Mill Store and buy the Southern Sweet Cream Waffle Mix so you can make them at home.

The downstairs restaurant is built in Art Nouveau style, with a light, airy feeling from the ceramic tile floor, elaborate light fixtures and lots of windows looking out onto the lawn and the nearby San Antonio River.  It was very busy on the Sunday of our visit, but the staff is cheery and efficient at keeping everyone moving.

I spoke briefly to Assistant Restaurant Manager Nelson Arcila, who took the time to point out many architectural details of the building (and encouraged us to stop by the To Go bakery section on the way out. Resistance was futile.)

The open lawn and river overlook make this a good family destination, too, because the kids can run around a bit if you have to wait for a table.  If you can, get there early; the parking and restaurant fill up fast.

I’d say that attending the San Fernando Cathedral mariachi Mass at 5:30 pm on Saturday afternoon, some River Walk fun Saturday night (maybe jazz at the Landing?) and then a Guenther House Sunday brunch would give you a pretty perfect San Antonio weekend.

Hope to see you soon, in surprising San Antonio.

(All photos by the author, except as noted.)

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